Three Incredible Ski Tours in Edsåsdalen
IN SHORT,
For a casual backcountry tour with a fika stop…
For a short nighttime cross-country jaunt before bed…
For a longer, exquisitely tracked and scenic cross-country ski at dawn or dusk…
HOW TO GET HERE
From Östersund by car, it’s a 1h 15m drive to Edsåsdalen via E14. Snow tires are recommended, and required anyway during the winter in Jämtland.
BONUS: Krettsloppshuset Cafe— farm to table deliciousness in a greenhouse. Open for lunch.
From Östersund by public transit, you’ll want to take SJ Regionaltåg to Undersåker. The train runs multiple times a day. At your stop in Undersåker, there is a local bus that runs a couple times a day to Edsåsdalen, or you can take a taxi. The caveat with the bus is that it may require a “notification” phone call before 17:00 the day before, as this is rural Sweden and they want to make sure that someone is actually going to ride the bus. That number is +46 771-820083.
From Åre train station, you’ll want to take a bus from Åre Resecentrum to Undersåker järnvägsstation (the train station), then change to the bus above. Same deal with the notification phonecall.
Renfjället
If you’re looking for the quintessential Swedish ski tour experience, go here. It scales a fjäll (small, rounded mountain) famous for its frequent reindeer sightings and view of Åreskutan (the tippy-top of Sweden’s largest ski resort) in the distance. It’s not going to be strenuous, but it is guaranteed to be quiet and magical in a way that you can’t describe afterward. It also, most importantly(!) passes right by a stuga (cabin) that serves homemade waffles topped with reindeer meat, or, if you’re more of a berry person— hjortron (cloudberries) harvested just outside the past summer.
To start, you have a few options. You can pay the 120kr (~$12) to take a single lift ride to the edge of Edsåsdalen’s tiny ski hill or you can ski up on a snowmobile trail (125) that kind of bushwhacks through the forest. I recommend the lift ride. You can pay for the ticket at Ravinliften, the t-bar lift just up the hill from Köja. If you’re staying further down the road in Edsåsdalen toward Hensjön, Hedungsliften is also an option. Also request a map.
Don’t be deceived by the steep lift ride up the ravine— once up there, it’s very gradual the rest of the way! You’ll want to follow trail 123, distinguished by a small number sign on the red crosses at intersections, which will eventually lead up to the destination: Vita Renen, also known as the waffle stuga. At a leisurely pace, you’ll cover those 3km/1.8 miles in about an hour. This is the high arctic tundra.
Bonus trip: If you’re feeling spritely still, I’d recommend skiing right on past Vita Renen and up to the peak of Renfjället. Don’t worry— Vita Renen will be there on your return.
A lone, mostly closed, lift points to the top, where you can see Åreskutan on a clear day. AT gear and skins are encouraged, but not required if you’re up for an adventure on the downhill.
Vita Renen is as enchanting as it gets, and you may want to stay there forever (or return tomorrow, like we did). It’s not rustic exactly, but it holds all the charm of early 1900s rural Sweden, with the modern comforts of a WC and espresso machine.
Head back down the same way you came and savor the views of snow-laden trees, rolling fjäll in the distance toward Norway, and your full belly. Be advised, the last part of the ski will test your balance skills a bit as you need to ski down the alpine resort hill to return to the base.
Tip: If Vita Renen stole your heart, I highly recommend returning for dinner on Thursday nights only. Reservations are required.
Henåspåret
Sweden can get really, really dark in wintertime. Meaning that most of the day will be shrouded in inky black even if it’s only 15:00.
The upside of dark winters is that there are miles of elljusspår (lighted tracks) at every ski area. The official nordic tracks start below Köja on the valley floor.
The lighted loop only covers 3.5km/2.1 miles, but it’s a riot. It’s moderately hilly, skims along the edge of the Hen river for a good portion, and if it’s snowing and you’re as night blind as me, it feels like you’re rocketing through outer space on the return. It’s a great shakeout loop for antsy legs post-dinnertime.
Milspåret
Milspåret literally means “the 10km long trail.” It is a perfect iteration of a classic single track on a playful loop. I guarantee it’s a great skate ski too. That’s all.
Bonus trip: Want to add some distance? Head off left about halfway through toward Älgberget on trail 122 to get above treeline. It won’t be beautifully groomed but it will be roughly packed down by snowmobilers.